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Posted by / 19-Jun-2017 06:02

It was a smile I would grow all too accustomed to from Saudi men in the coming days.

Crown Prince Abdullah—now the king—was a radical modernizer by Saudi standards.I had visited Saudi Arabia twice before, and knew it was the hardest place on earth for a woman to negotiate.Women traveling on their own have generally needed government minders or permission slips. Just the vacation spot for a headstrong, adventure-loving, cocktail-imbibing, fashion-conscious chick.Long averse to non-Muslim curiosity seekers, the Kingdom is now flirting with tourism, though drinking is forbidden and women can’t drive—or do much of anything—without a man.

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Armed with moxie and a Burqini, the author confronts the limits of Saudi Arabian hospitality, as well as various male enforcers, learning that, as always, it matters whom you know.